Day 7
Rome
Sant I’vo a la Sapienza
Architect: Borromini
St Luigi de la Francesi
Paintings by Carravagio
San Carlino alle Quartre Fontana
Architect: Borromini
Maxxi
Architect: Hadid
Palazzo Barberini
Architect: Borromini (staircase)
San Andrea al Quirinale
Architect: Bernini
Borromini is extraordinary; a totally absorbing revelation. The way he played with light; directed it, washed it across surfaces, that splay, twist, turn, drop, that rise can bulbs and cannons of surprising and beautiful light. The scale of his work is so considered and well modulated. The promenade from inside to outside; one space into the next, layers of space, complex geometries. A procession from outside to inside: sometimes gradual & other times abrupt. Long stepped ramps linking one side of the building to the other; a through space, washed in light, two flights of steps leading round and up on either side – changing direction slightly 5 m up then up extending the space below into tubes of light to the sky above. Grand and yet intimate. Sadly, I was too young in the past to appreciate him but it seems that so much which has transpired in the 20th century has borrowed from him, Miralles being one notable example. Bernini on other hand is all bombast. Beautiful, rich, and sensory but much more decorative, heavy in symbolism (which can be a good thing) and less spatial. Carravagio amazing to actually see; tight gold tinted space richly scented with incense, chiaroscuro colour dark and light transfixes.









